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The Italian Denim styles in the range are woven by the Candiani mill in Milan. Candiani has been producing denim for over 80 years and is recognised as one of the most technically advanced and environmentally responsible mills. The denim is 98% cotton with a small amount of elastane woven in for stretch. For the cotton stretch styles, the fabric is an Italian-woven cotton-elastane blend with a different construction: a cleaner, more uniform surface suited to a wider colour palette beyond traditional denim tones.
The range is offered in three fits. Straight Fit runs cleanly through the thigh and leg with no taper, giving a classic, versatile silhouette. Relaxed Fit has more room through the thigh for a comfortable, lived-in feel. Loose Fit is the most generous cut, sitting wide through the leg for a contemporary, relaxed look. All three fits are available across multiple washes and leg lengths.
Italian denim styles are woven at the Candiani mill and use traditional denim construction: a twill weave with indigo dyeing that fades and creases with wear, developing character over time. They are available in classic denim washes. Our cotton styles such as the Motion 2 and Thomas Road use an Italian-woven cotton-elastane fabric with a more uniform finish, available in a broader range of colours including neutrals, greens, and navies. They look like a refined chino rather than a traditional jean. Both use stretch for comfort, but the fabric, finish, and colour range differ considerably.
The Italian denim styles come in several washes, ranging from a lightly rinsed raw look that retains most of the original indigo through to heavier stonewash finishes with pronounced fading and distressing. Mid-washes sit between the two. The cotton stretch styles do not use a wash process: they come in solid, consistent colours across a wider palette. Wash choice in the denim styles affects the starting point of the colour, not just the look, a lightly washed jean will fade more over time than one that is already heavily washed.
Our candiani denim styles are designed to fade, indigo sits on the surface of the cotton fibres rather than penetrating them fully, so washing and wearing gradually lightens the colour and develops natural creases unique to the wearer. This is considered a feature of quality denim. The cotton stretch styles do not fade in the same way and retain their colour more consistently over time.
Quality denim like Candiani uses longer cotton fibres and more precise weaving, producing a fabric that wears evenly and holds its shape over time. The stretch matters too: quality elastane maintains its recovery wash after wash, while other alternatives degrade and cause bagging at the knees. Lower-quality denim can fade unevenly and lose its structure.
Jeans should sit at the natural waist and should have enough room through the thigh to sit and move without pulling, but not so much that the fabric bunches or sags. In a straight fit, the leg should fall cleanly from the thigh to the hem with no flaring. In a relaxed or loose fit, the extra room through the leg is intentional: the hem should still sit neatly at the top of the shoe without excessive bunching. If the thigh feels tight when seated, size up. If the waist gaps at the back when standing, size down.